Fork & the Road // Charcuterie!
By Andrew Zimmern, Delta Sky Contributing Editor
In the latest issue of Sky, I look at America’s craft meat movement. Here are three leading lights of charcuterie.
An all-star in the meatcentric food scene, Goss is the resident savant behind Publican Quality Meats in Chicago. His dry-cured sausage collection includes dozens of unique shapes and grind mixtures that remind me of cured sausage in rural Italy.
Deihl, a steady force on the Southern food scene, is executive chef at Cypress in Charleston, South Carolina. He and his Cypress team conducted a lot of research when creating their charcuterie program, and the result is stunning recipes such as cypressata (the restaurant’s version of soppresata) and a warm, spreadable fennel salami.
Smith most recently served as executive chef at Hugh Acheson’s Empire State South in Atlanta. The two collaborated on a modern approach to authentic Southern dishes, with a strong focus on the tradition of preserving meats. Customers went wild over his potted and jarred meats, such as pork rillettes, chicken livers and terrines, as well as his cured meats and sausages. Smith left Empire State South in August to focus on Staplehouse, slated to open later this year in Atlanta’s Old Fourth Ward. The joint venture with his fiancé, brother and sister-in-law will churn out local and seasonal small plates for sharing. The best part? All profits will fund The Giving Kitchen, an initiative aimed at supporting restaurant industry folks who’ve fallen on hard times.
Zimmern is the James Beard Award-winning host of Bizarre Foods America on the Travel Channel and a Delta Medallion traveler.
Photo Credit: Rillettes from Publican Quality Meats in Chicago by Marc Hauser.