Southern Eats Beyond the Mason-Dixon
By: Paula Disbrowe, Delta Sky Contributing Writer
Sky’s latest issue focuses on Southern foods such as brisket, bacon and biscuits—iconic bites that have captured the attention of the national media, as well as top chefs around the country. As a result, an increasing number of downhome spots (complete with Hank Williams and George Jones soundtracks) have opened in urban zip codes. Don’t be surprised to find pimento cheese on a burger, or catch the aroma of chicken frying or brisket smoking over a wood fire in hipster hoods in Brooklyn, Portland and Chicago. Here are four spots north of the Mason-Dixon that are treating Southern food with the respect it deserves.
1. Pine State Biscuits in Portland, Oregon, is one of the hottest brunch tickets in town, thanks for its two handed biscuit sandwiches (stuffed with fried chicken, bacon and cheese and topped with gravy, andouillie corn dogs and homemade pecan pie.
2. The new Carriage House in Chicago, a restaurant that claims to serve “a taste of the south up north,” offers two menus—one is “traditional” with classics like She Crab Soup, Shrimp and Grits, and a Picnic Board that includes deviled eggs, pimento cheese, and country ham. The flip side is “re-imagined,” with riffs such as a Low Country oyster roast with cheek bacon, tomato jam, buttermilk aioli, and pork boudin balls with Cajun peanut romesco, creole mustard aioli and pickled red onion, and dill.
3. Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson (American Table Café and Bar, Uptown Brasserie at JFK, and several concepts in Sweden) made his name in Nordic cuisine at Aquavit, but he turned his attention to comfort soul food at Red Rooster Harlem, his latest restaurant that serves Fried Chicken and Waffles (kicked up with chicken liver butter and bourbon maple syrup) and a gooey “Mac and Greens,” made more interesting with Gouda, NY Cheddar and Comte.
4. BrisketTown, Daniel Delaney’s highly regarded Williamsburg restaurant features Central Texas style smoked meats, seasonal vegetable sides and fresh-baked pies. The wild success of his first brick and mortar (and his chopped brisket tacos) has sparked Smokeline, a cart on the High Line in Chelsea, and Taco Town, a pop up in Madison Square Park. In addition to the brisket tacos, Delaney serves his take on Southern tacos—tortillas wrapped around pulled pork, fried chicken, and fried Brussels sprouts.
For more Southern eats, read the full article at deltaskymag.com
Photo Credit: Marcus Samuelsson photo by Paul Brissman